TwinTurbo.NET: Nissan 300ZX forum - Hooser R7's
People Seeking Info
 
   


     
Subject Hooser R7's
     
Posted by MightyAA on May 12, 2017 at 10:15 AM
  This message has been viewed 322 times.
     
In Reply To Time Attack and Road Course Racing Settings posted by Red Hawk (CO) on May 09, 2017 at 11:15 AM
     
Message Sorry.. late to this discussion.
Don't know what the current rules are or the track, but a long time ago I took regional championships in time trails. If it's still a hot lap then best of 3, the Hooser R7 is the tire since it builds heat fast. In a pinch, you can use the autocross Hooser A7, but your 2nd lap will be your fastest since they'll get greasy and start melting on the next ones. Some guys would sandbag the 2nd to get the temps down a bit and learn the apex then push the next two laps. Mixman's camber stuff looks like a good starting point and use heat sensors if there are timing laps for grouping. You'll look for consistent heat across the tire. You can also use chalk lines to see how much roll you are getting and make some adjustments that way. If it's twisty; assuming it is to keep speed down.. a pinch of toe-in also helps. Though I'm not sure what you do with the 300 on the rear.

Other skills to practice; Left foot braking. It's a way to help balance the car and keep the turbo spooled up. I wasn't in my 300zx though, so the fwd Saab I campaigned was a different beast; I just know, unlike newer cars, the computers won't cut out boost if you are on the brakes. A 350z I took out a few times just wasn't set up at all. I did find though a hard setting on the shocks in back and mid-stiff on the fronts worked really well. Basically using left foot techniques I could load the front springs and use the rebound to help pop out the back end of a corner. Track was tons easier than autocross (which I did a lot of) just because you have more time to look ahead and react to what the car is doing; like feeling the springs load and rebound in the corner and the center of gravity shifting from front to back during breaking and accelerating; fwd is a different monster since I needed to keep the weight on the drive wheels at the wrong end. For the 300, you can get on the go pedal sooner as you come out of a corner, so you'll be slow in, fast out... I was the opposite.

Also, in Colorado if it's a twisty track with a lot of braking... Get high temp racing brake fluid, track pads and stainless lines. Early on I didn't and ballooned my brake lines when I boiled the brake fluid. I also once lit the EBC pads on fire and warped my rotors. It's our lack of humidity so you won't cool easily.

Tightening the nut behind the wheel though is your best move. Do a season and practice the lines and hitting your apex's as well as getting a feel. The nice thing about street tires is most usually have telltale signs like squeeling before they break loose. Race tires just get 'greasy' and suddenly go. It's an expensive hobby.

     
Follow Ups  
     
Post a
Followup

You cannot reply to this message because you are not logged in.